Introduction and Notes to The Anarchy Files Being depressed about the current uneventful situation in modem world, and being an avid enthusiast of the old days, when piracy and phreaking rulled the telephone lines, I decided to create this archive from old manuscripts that I had collected from my tour of the modem world. Inside you will find various essays on telephone line modifing, explosives, and various other terrorist activities. A few of them are from the Poor Man's James Bond, a popular book in line with the Anarchists Cook Book. Note that this is the second editing of most of the essays, the first was made by Quasimoto. From viewing the condition of the essays, I strongly believe that the only editing he did was to copy all of them onto one disk. All of the essays had massive spelling mistakes, and most were formatted for fourty columns and uppercase. I made the necessary changes to all the files. Note that there may be a few small gramatical, logical, or spelling error; this is due to the fact that I didnt waste my time doing a detailed proofing of every single one. I did skim over all of them, and I believe that most are just fine. Some of the files contain BBS numbers. I have not verified their current existance, but I highly doubt that any remain to this day. It might be valueable to check up on their existance, and if you have nothing else to do, I would recommend it. Also, some mention pirate groups, and I would also be suprised if they remain alive and active. Throughout the edition process, I have tried to maintain their appearence, so as not to disturbe the original overall look and feeling one gets when reading them. There have also been many purposly misspelled words, and I have left them the way they were. Some long chemical names, my speller didn't recognize, and I did not bother to check up on the spelling. Also, I have tried some of the experiments, some have failed and some worked beutifully. I have not modified at all the content of the essay, if I could not get it to work. You'll notice that many of these essays are very valuable, and some are obvious jokes; to any extent, have fun, be careful, and don't get yourself arrested or KILLED! -- Perihelion |\/| |/\| 11/88 Chemical igniters from the book: The Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon Chemical delay igniters have always been popular with the more versatile militants. The most common such igniter is the sulfuric acid-potassium chlorate and sugar. The igniter is a mixture of half potassium chlorate and half granulated sugar. It bursts into flame with the application of a drop of sulfuric acid. The idea is to put some of the mixture into a glass or plastic tube and then stuff in some cotton, or paper. Some acid is then put into the tube with a medicine dropper, bought at a drug or hobby store. The acid is supposed to seep slowly through the barrier and finally ignite the mixture. The bad thing about this system is that it often doesn't work or it works too fast. When sulfuric acid eats through vegetable matter there is a reaction of great heat. This is often enough to break the glass tubing and melt a plastic drinking straw and can stop the action right there. If the glass tubing holds, the acid still loses its potency as it reacts with the vegetable matter and that which reaches the mixture may be too weak. The worst thing that can happen, however, is that it will work too fast. The acid can eat through the barrier in seconds instead of the minutes you think you have. This could be disastrous if you loitered in the area for a minute to avoid looking suspicious. If you armed the device before going into the target area, you might not even get there. To avoid such hangups you should use a non-reactive barrier such as asbestos fibers, bought from any building supply store. The acid will seep through the asbestos fibers, making heat and without losing its potency. and since it doesn't eat the asbestos, it can be timed with much more certainty, which makes it safer and more sure. Powdered highway flare igniter can be substituted for the potassium chlorate-sugar mixture. It is over half potassium chlorate and is simpler. In fact, if the plastic straw is pushed over a fuse coated with flare igniter, the fuse needs no other igniter. Another chemical ignition device uses glycerin to react with potassium permanganate. Potassium permanganate is a relatively stable oxygenator and can easily be bought at the drug store. It is also used for staining microscope specimens, disinfecting fish tanks. The potassium permanganate is ground to a powder and mixed with the same amount of fuse powder and mixed with the same amount of fuse powder or the highway flare igniter. Cotton can be used as a barrier as it doesn't react with glycerin. At least an inch of glycerin is put into the tube, especially if you use a barrier. When it reaches the mixture it takes from three to five minutes for the ignition to take place. If the igniter is potassium chlorate and sugar or flare igniter or potassium permanganate, it needs a barrier to keep it in place. To make sure the fire train burns past the barrier to the fuse, the barrier should be flammable. To make material for this barrier, mix cotton with wet fuse powder or flare igniter. Then dry it and pull off pinches as needed. To arm these devices a medicine dropper filled with acid or glycerin can be carried up-ended in a test tube in the shirt pocket. A plastic felt-tip marker with a clip to hold it upright in the pocket can be used instead of the test tube. It is simply hollowed out and the dropper fits in nicely. To avoid burned fingers, a string is tied to the dropper so it can be pulled out of the container. To avoid the medicine dropper entirely, you can make up some preprimed plastic mold compound. suck up a half inch of the compound into a 4 1/2 inch plastic straw. Then let it dry for a couple of days. Shortly before use, put in the acid or glycerin. =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= Contact Explosives and Smoke Bombs by the Apple Maniac =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Petroleum jelly and potassium chlorate in a 1 to 1 ratio by weight makes a totally safe when wet compound but is highly explosive and shock sensitive when dry. /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ 3 grams of potassium iodide and 5 grams of iodine in a beaker with 50ml of water mixed all together. Add 20ml of ammonium hydroxide (ammonia water 10%) filter and the resulting solid is called nitrogen tri-iodide. When wet is very safe but upon drying becomes very explosive and shock sensitive, to the point of a feather setting it off. /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ To set off the above explosives all you really need to do is put some of the mixture on or in something and then drop it sort of like an impact bomb. It explodes on impact with another objects. [-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-] Here is a mixture for great smoke bombs. 4 parts of sugar to 6 parts potassium nitrate (salt peter). Heat over low flame until it melts, stir well. Pour it into future container. Before it solidifies, imbed a few matches as fuses into the mixture. One lb. fills a block nicely with thick white smoke. Presented by the Digital Dimension 714/891-3334 EXPLOSIVE PENS Here are the instructions for building a device no agent should be without. From the mind of "Q" himself, a device for your evaluation. Materials...... [1]-(1) "Felt" Tip Pen [2]-(1) "Ball" Point Pen [3]-(1) High quality firecracker! [4]-(1) 8 gram measure potassium parmagranite (optional) [5]-(x) Scotch Tape [6]-(1) Large Paper Clip [7]-(2) Packages of matches [8]-(1) Pair of scissors [9]-(1) Length of Beige thread Assembly...... [1]- Use thread to friction saw the felt tip pen in half at the point where the cap "snaps" onto the pen. (about mid-section) [2]- Remove the innards of the felt tip pen, and throw them away. [3]- Pull the innards out of a bic ball point pen and remove the ball point assembly at the front of the pen. [4]- Use scissors to widen the hole in the "felt" end of the pen. Insert the ball assembly and make sure it is a tight fit. It should now look as if the felt tip pen was constructed as a ball point pen. [5]- Cut off abrasive strips from the packs of matches. It is best if they have not been used. Tape these to the top of the firecracker near the fuse, the strips should run parallel to the outstretched fuse. Wrap fuse over the top of one strip and tape down so fuse runs parallel to abrasive strips. [6]- Unbend paperclip and tape a match to the metal rod, the match should be parallel to the rod and it should be taped tight using as little tape as possible. [7]- Insert the match head 1/5 of the way between the abrasive strips and wrap tape around the assembly. It should now look like this. ------______----- [][][]a[][][]-----------------(b) (())--------------------- ______------_____ |(c) |(d) (a)-Explosive/(b)-Fuse/(c)-Match attached to metal rod/(d)-Abrasives The entire assembly should be thin enough to slip into the case of the felt tip pen. [8]- Using scissors drill a small hole in the "non-tip" end of the felt tip pen case. Insert the assembly so the metal rod fits through the hole in the end of the pen case. [9]- The assembly will not quite fit properly. The firecracker will protrude from the cut half of the felt tip case. Slip the removed end of the case over the firecracker. (join the halves together over the firecracker in the center) and mount the cap of the felt tip pen on the end of the metal rod. Glue any loose parts. You are done! To Detonate... Simply hit the cap (mounted at end of pen permanently) and throw it at your target, or hand it to your target. My favorite is to say "Think Fast" and throw them your felt tip pen. (make it a easy throw) Your victim will catch it, and it will then explode. Cutting off many small appendages if you coat the firecracker with potassium parmagranite. Or killing your target if you use contact poison in place of the potassium. Theory of operation... Quite simple, by hitting the cap you are ramming the match head at the end of the metal rod between the tight abrasive strips causing combustion. Or the "Orgasm" effect. (the term Axis Agents use!) The fire lights the fuse and from there, the pen is history! (pardon the pun) After hitting the cap you have a average time limit of 2.5 seconds to rid yourself of the pen. (plenty of time actually...) -------------------------------------- - E X P L O S I V E S - - - - <#Dark Forest#>]{<#312/232 8804#>] - - - - Magical Formula's Part I - - (*>Clovis Greenslade<*) - -------------------------------------- SEC I ----- N A P A L M * * * * * * Napalm is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents will not work. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and then the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold it's heat much longer and permit a much larger container than the double boiler. SEC II ------ S M O K E B O M B * * * * * Mix 4 parts sugar and 6 parts potassium nitrate (salt peter) and heat it over a low flame until it melts. Stir well, then pour it into a container you don't need. Before it solidifies, put a few matches on the surface as fuses. One pound of this substance will fill a block nicely with white smoke. I have not yet devised a method to get colored smoke, but I will soon... SEC III ------- GENERIC (BUT POWERFUL) B O M B * * * * * * * * * * * 1> Get a hold of a glass jug. 2> Put in a few drops of gasoline. 3> Cap the top. 4> Now turn the jug around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates. 5> Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (you can get this real easy from a snake-bite kit). 6> The bomb is detonated by throwing or forcibly rolling against a solid object. After throwing run like hell. It packs the same charge as 1/2 stick of dynamite. How to Make a Flashlight Bomb A flashlight bomb is fairly easy it make and can be concealed so well, that it is virtually impossible to detect it. Here's what to do: Get yourself one flashlight of any size, shape, or creed, and the battery/batteries that go along with it. Now it is time for an important decision. Depending upon the type of bomb you require, you have to make a choice in materials. Here are your choices: [1] mercuric chloride - gas bomb [2] pure sodium + water - flame bomb [3] sulfuric nitrate - acid bomb [4] gunpowder (tnt) - boooooooom! Now, taking the material for the type of bomb you would like to make, proceed to put rocks, bb's, glass pellets, etc... In the bottom of a hollowed out battery/batteries, unless you are making a flame bomb, which in that case read on. Then line a magnesium strip along the side of the flashlight appearing on top of the flashlight so you may light it. Next, make sure you have plenty of the explosive you chose in the battery. [ Not you may lightly pack it in, but do not hit it!!! My friend was packing a home-made bomb one day, and hammered the cover on, and blew a hole right through his liquor cabinet ] next, secure the top, leaving room to insert the magnesium strip. It should look like this: ----------- \ / \ / \_____/ ! bmb ! ! bmb ! ! bmb ! ! bbb ! ! ! !_____! In the last diagram, (b) stands for battery and (m) for magnesium. Also inside the battery should be the ammo and the explosive. Now for the flame bomb...The sodium, should be on the top, and the water in a babyfood jar. The sodium used here is not table salt!!! You won't need the mag. Strip because number 1, because all you need do is hit the flashlight against something hard. Do not hold it---throw it as far as you can!!! <><><>How to Build a Flamethrower<><><> Items you will need: 1 squirt bottle like the windex bottle 2 coat hanger 3 cardboard 4 flammable liquid Building it: Take the top off the squirt bottle. Fill it with the flammable liquid. (we used charcoal lighter). I wouldn't fill it all the way to the top in case there is an accident. (ka-boom!) Cut about a foot and a half of coat hanger and bend one end around the neck of the bottle tightly. Bend about an inch of the other end vertically. The wire should be horizontal for about a foot+ a little. Roll up a little piece of cardboard and rap it with lots of tape of some kind. Here is how it should look: bottle=' wire=- and ! ! ''''''' ! ' ' -------------------- ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '''''''' Stick the tape-wrapped cardboard over the vertical part of the wire. Shooting flames: Squirt some flammable liquid with the squirter onto the tape-wrapped cardboard (witch should be on the end of the wire) light the flammable liquid and tape wrapped cardboard. (opps, don't light the liquid!!! light the cardboard that is soaked with liquid!!) when it starts burning good, shoot some of the liquid into the flames with the squirter. For longest shot, shoot into the flames but do not hit the cardboard. Have fun by: the Glove ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ ][ HOW TO MAKE TNT ][ ][ BROUGHT TO YOU BY ][ ][ COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH ][ ][ (801)-264-8201 ][ ][ FORMATTED FOR 80 COLUMNS ][ ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ How to make TNT By THE SCREAMER *s*c**re*a***m**e**r* Probably the most important explosive compound in use today is TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high explosives are all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being able to be melted at 82 degrees Celsius, so that it can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which resemble drycell batteries, and are usually ignited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although there are other methods. Preparation of TNT 1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weight ratio rather than volume). 2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed in an ice bath. 3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. 4. Remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. 5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid. 6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45 degrees C. when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. After this point, the remaining acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe. 7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this temperature is reached, it is maintained for a full half hour. 8. At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottom. 9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accomplished slowly and gently. 10. Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 degrees C. to 104 degrees C., and is held for three hours. 11. After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and held there for a half hour. 12. After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with boiling water. 13. After the washing with boiling water, while being stirred constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify. 14. When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you'll have a good quality of TNT. NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use approximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer. The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY. ***s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r* -----------[=Explosive Phun=]---------- by -------------[=Chris Jones=]----------- --------------------------------------- These projects are for those of you who would like to get even at somebody, but you don't really want to hurt them. Just scare the hell out of them. ----------[=IODINE CRYSTALS=]---------- These little beauties are pressure sensitive so that the slightest touch will cause a fairly loud explosion. (About a fourth of a fire cracker per crystal) It may not seem like much, but there are usually about 500 crystals in a teaspoon of crystallized iodine. Also, when the first one goes off, it will most likely start a chain reaction and cause all of the others around it to go off too, which would cause all of the others around each one of those to go off etc. Materials: 1. 1 bottle of iodine crystals. 2. 1 bottle of ammonia nitrate Instructions: Mix 2 teaspoons of crystals with about 4 ounces of ammonia. You might have to experiment with the measurements a little bit to see what works best. Stir until dissolved, then pour it over the area that you want to trap. Let the ammonia evaporate so all that will be left are the tiny crystals. (they are almost invisible) Then, when somebody steps on or sets something down on it... ******HE'LL SHIT IN HIS PANTS!!!******* -------------[=HAVE PHUN=]------------- Which G-file (Q=Quit) ? 19 How to Make a Landmine by Merlin and Black Knight First you need to get a push button switch, or a door bell ... Take the wires of it and connect one to a 9 volt battery connector and the other to a solar igniter (if you can't get that then use a thin piece of stereo wire). Connect the other wire of the 9 volt connector to to the other end of the solar igniter (stereo wire). Now... connect the end of a fuse (of a pipe bomb, M80, whatever has a fuse) to the solar igniter... Dig a hole... not to deep but enough to cover all the materials. Think about what direction your enemy will coming from and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not to visible). Plant the explosive about 3 feet from the switch because there will be a delay in the explosion. And when your enemy steps on it... B O O M ! ! ! ------------------- <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> The Complete Pipe Bomb Guide <\> Written by the Monitor <\> Call Ground Zero 110 megs <\> (213) 644/7057 <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> <\> Disclaimer: I have written this document with the intent that the readers gain in technical knowledge only, rather than using it to make illegal bombs. These bombs are HIGHLY dangerous, and should NOT be reproduced. I take NO responsibility for misuse of this information that results in physical damage or death. Important: The most important thing about pipe bombs is to be VERY careful. ANY size of pipe bomb can easily rip off hands and send shrapnel speeding to the depths of your body. My friends and I (including the Stadt, the End, and the Extortionist) originally began our quest for the perfect bomb with our own discovery of the pipe bomb. The first ones we made were simply about 2-3 inch lengths of copper tubing about 1/2 to 3/4ths wide. These we filled with gunpowder collected from opening shotgun shells and large firecrackers, and crimped the ends to seal the powder inside. We then inserted a firecracker fuse and lit them. Unfortunately they did minute amounts of damage and produced great amounts of smoke and lots of noise, and were essentially large firecrackers. Observing our misfortunes of wasting the precious gunpowder, we started construction on a second generation of pipe bombs. We took a hollow metal rod, of about 2.5 inches long, 1/2 inches wide, and with approximately 1/16 to 1/8 inch walls. These bombs were much smaller than our first ones, because of the material, and because our supply of gun powder was greatly diminished from our first attempts. We again crimped the edges and lit the bombs through a small hole in the top with a fuse. The resulting explosion produced an incredible sound that was deafening for MILES and a hole the length of your small finger in the asphalt. This was our last attempt for some time, because the sound it produced hurt my dad's ears when he was taking a shower. [Note]: When we recovered the shrapnel, the strong steel pipe that took tons of force to even crimp the edges, was turned inside out! Important: DO NOT USE FIRECRACKER FUSES TO LIGHT THESE OFF for obvious reasons. It was a miracle that none of us were injured in the explosion. Many months later, I was up in Tahoe, where my cousin lives, and one day we decided to continue the research that my friends and I started so long ago. We first used normal CO2 bottles, like the kind used for BB guns. These we filled with black or smokeless powder through the small hole in the top. Magnesium strips were used to ignite the newly constructed bombs. When placed flat on a dry lake bed they took the dirt and mud from beneath them and threw it 15 feet into the air. The sound created from the third generation pipe bombs were equally painful. Excited from our results, we went to the local hardware store and purchased 1/2 to 3/4 foot long steel water pipes with steel screw on caps. [Note]: The ones about 3/4 to 1 inch wide. We filled these huge bombs with smokeless powder taken from cartridge refill cans bought from local gun shops. We used model rocket solar igniters and 9 volt batteries to ignite them, making sure we were a good distance away and behind a large obstacle. (like a 10 ton rock) On the larger of the bombs, we used two igniters, one near each end of the tube, to give maximum efficiency of power. [Note]: make sure the wires do not touch themselves OR the pipe bomb; also make sure that the holes used to insert the detonaters are as small as made possible, or the power might escape out the holes, and nothing happens. One of these we buried about 1 foot under the ground with lots of fist size rocks and packed dirt. When detonated, the bomb threw them up to 50 feet into the air, and created hail storms of fist size rocks instead of ice. The explosions took place in the hills and mountains surrounding the resort town or Alpine Meadows. The popular ski resort is about 3 miles up the canyon, and Squaw Valley, the famous ski resort once used for a winter olympic was about 10 miles away. The resulting sound blasted our ears, and could easily be heard echoing off the faces of Alpine Meadow's ski slopes. One can not easily imagine the power behind the forces of pipe bombs, and why they are so feared as terrorist weapons. Those last experiments were easily the largest we've ever made. Now, my friends and I devote ourselves to the pursuit of more sophisticated devices. We've come up with several options. The first and most fun is a simple PVC plastic bombs. They produce much more power than expected and lots of ear deafening noise. We used simple crushed rocket propulsion powder which creates large billowing clouds of smoke in addition to the other properties. [Note]: one of the most important things, is to make sure that the end caps are of the screw on types and are very tight and secure; also, electric tape wound tightly around all parts of the bomb highly strengthen the tube and will usually give better results. Our sixth and final generation were again small steel pipes with tight screw on ends. The major difference with these and the others is the detonation device used. We got sick of wasting time and money on rocket solar fuses and decided to make cheap, easy and efficient igniters. We came up with small iron wool filaments. These work wonders when woven correctly and when a powerful DC current is applied across them. You must make long, very thin filaments to work, however, if woven too tightly, they will not burn effectively. Practice several times, until you get perfect ones that either spark or produce rapid glowing sparks across the length of the filament. We uses a AC to DC converter that produces 1.5 amps and 25 volts. If you cant gain ahold of one of these (a train power supply works) 2-4 9 volt batteries in parallel and serial arrangement gives ample amperage and voltage to produce a good effect. Diagram of a sample sixth generation bomb: ___________________________ / | | \ ---------------========================| \__|_____________________|__/ ^ ^ ^ | | | tight steel cap steel tube tight steel cap --- Wire terminal, make sure it DOES NOT touch the pipe in any way. It must ONLY touch the filament. === Iron wool filament. One end is connected to the wire terminal, the other is impeded between the threads of the caps and tube. You must have 2 wires, one is the wire terminal, the other is wound around or soldered to the tube. You should drill a small hole in the center of one of the caps to insert the terminal through. We found it better to epoxy the threads together and to clog up and hold the terminal firmly in the hole. Once again, make sure the wire only touches the filament, leave the rubber insulator on the wire, except for the part that touches the filament. Fill the tube with gunpowder or similar explosives. Important: DO NOT be stupid and solder a wire to the tube WHILE the gunpowder is inside. Also make sure the tube has cooled down before you fill it up, and KEEP ALL BATTERIES AWAY when you're assembling it, you don't want it to accidentally touch the filament and ignite the bomb! We've used this set up to test underwater depth charges in a pool and for land mines. Both are HIGHLY effective. For land mines, use a door bell for the pressure plate, and barry the bomb not more than a couple of inches below the ground, and don't forget BB's or rocks, etc for shrapnel. Special thanks to the Dark Wizard +-------------------------------------+ ! King Arthur's Demolition Article #1 ! +-------------------------------------+ Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and caution when you are doing this. Even if you have made this stuff before. This first article will give you information on making nitroglycerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as straight dynamites, and gelatin dynamites. --------------------------------------- Making Nitroglycerin --------------------------------------- 1. Fill a 75-millimeter beaker to the 13 ml. level with fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration. 2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temp. 3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming sulfuric acid (99% h2so4). In other words, add to the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. of fuming sulfuric acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering. 4. When the two are mixed, lower their temp. by adding more ice to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade. (Use a mercury-operated thermometer) 5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read this step about 10 times!) glycerin is added slowly and carefully (I mean careful!) until the entire surface of the acid it covered with it. 6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade! If the solution should go above 30 degrees, immediately dump the solution into the ice bath! This will insure that it does not go off in your face! 7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will form a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulfuric acid will absorb the excess water. 8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottom so the other acids can be drained away. 9. After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution. the sodium is an alkali and will neutralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as much as necessary using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is. 10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. This is done with and eyedropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear blue flame. ** caution ** Nitro is very sensitive to decomposition, heating dropping, or jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool. ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ ][ COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH ][ ][ (801)-264-8201 ][ ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ Courtesy of the Safehouse +-------------------------------------+ ! King Arthur's Demolition article #2 ! +-------------------------------------+ I have decided to skip the article on mercury fulminate for a while and get right into the dynamite article. Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stabilizing agent to make it much safer to use. For the sake of saving time, I will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG. The numbers are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume. no. ingredients amount --------------------------------------- #1 NG 32 sodium nitrate 28 woodmeal 10 ammonium oxalate 29 guncotten 1 #2 NG 24 potassium nitrate 9 sodium nitrate 56 woodmeal 9 ammonium oxalate 2 #3 NG 35.5 potassium nitrate 44.5 woodmeal 6 guncotton 2.5 vaseline 5.5 powdered charcoal 6 #4 NG 25 potassium nitrate 26 woodmeal 34 barium nitrate 5 starch 10 #5 NG 57 potassium nitrate 19 woodmeal 9 ammonium oxalate 12 guncotton 3 #6 NG 18 sodium nitrate 70 woodmeal 5.5 potassium chloride 4.5 chalk 2 #7 NG 26 woodmeal 40 barium nitrate 32 sodium carbonate 2 #8 NG 44 woodmeal 12 anhydrous sodium sulfate 44 #9 NG 24 potassium nitrate 32.5 woodmeal 33.5 ammonium oxalate 10 #10 NG 26 potassium nitrate 33 woodmeal 41 #11 NG 15 sodium nitrate 62.9 woodmeal 21.2 sodium carbonate .9 #12 NG 35 sodium nitrate 27 woodmeal 10 ammonium oxalate 1 #13 NG 32 potassium nitrate 27 woodmeal 10 ammonium oxalate 30 guncotton 1 #14 NG 33 woodmeal 10.3 ammonium oxalate 29 guncotton .7 potassium perchloride 27 #15 NG 40 sodium nitrate 45 woodmeal 15 #16 NG 47 starch 50 guncotton 3 #17 NG 30 sodium nitrate 22.3 woodmeal 40.5 potassium chloride 7.2 #18 NG 50 sodium nitrate 32.6 woodmeal 17 ammonium oxalate .4 #19 NG 23 potassium nitrate 27.5 woodmeal 37 ammonium oxalate 8 barium nitrate 4 calcium carbonate .5 Household equivalents for chemicals It has come to my attention that many of these chemicals are sold under brand names, or have household equivalents. Here is a list that might help you out. acetic acid vinegar aluminum oxide aluminum aluminum potassium sulfate aluminum aluminum sulfate aluminum ammonium hydroxide ammonia carbon carbonate chalk calcium hydrochloride bleaching powder calcium oxide lime calcium sulfate plaster of paris carbonic acid seltzer carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid ferric oxide iron rust glucose corn syrup graphite pencil lead hydrochloric acid muriatic acid hydrogen peroxide peroxide lead acetate sugar of lead lead tetrooxide red lead magnesium silicate talc magnesium sulfate Epsom salts naphthalene mothballs phenol carbolic acid potassium bicarbonate cream of tarter potassium chromium sulf. chrome alum potassium nitrate saltpeter sodium dioxide sand sodium bicarbonate baking soda sodium borate borax sodium carbonate washing soda sodium chloride salt sodium hydroxide lye sodium silicate water glass sodium sulfate glauber's salt sodium thiosulfate photographers hypo sulfuric acid battery acid sucrose cane sugar zinc chloride tinner's fluid Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you can always buy small amounts from your school, or maybe from various chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a experiment for school. Again, I hate to bore ya, but be sure to follow instructions carefully. If you fail to do so, your parents might have to pick up your ashes. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $ SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB $ $ ---- ----- --- ---- $ $ $ $ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $ $ $ $ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $ $ BY KURT SAXON $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerin is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on passerbys. It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast! !! !! !! <-chemical igniter --------- ! !1! ! ! ===== ! !*! !"! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! <- big firecracker ! ! !%! ! ==== ! ! ! ! # ! ! --- ! ! ! ! <- nuts & bolts ! / ! ! ! --------- Stinkum: From the Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon Typed by the Penguin Iron sulfide is sold for $.35 for only 1/8th of an ounce. Easier to make and just as potent and costing about $.50 a quart is ammonium sulfide. It stinks to high heaven like rotten eggs and no one can stand to stay around it once it has been spilled on the floor or vaporized by an explosion. To make some, you mix 4 ounces of sulfur with 8 ounces of hydrated lime in a stew pot. A quart of water is added and the mess is heated and stirred until the sulfur has completely blended. the hydrated lime will sink to the bottom of the pan and the yellow liquid is then poured off into a bucket. Take the bucket outside, if you have any sense, and add 1 pound of sulfate of ammonia. Stir it a minute and hold your nose. Then cover the bucket with plastic wrap and let it set for about a half hour. Then pour off the liquid slowly through a cloth filter into a bottle. If you don't have an outside you can use your bathroom, just hope no one has to go for an hour or so. the liquid is vile but not poison. A 5 pound bag of sulfate of ammonia for $1.65 can be bought at any garden store and garden sulfur is very high grade and makes excellent gun powder. It has 10% inert ingredients so 10% more should be added to any formula requiring sulfur. I bought the hydrated lime from a building supply store for $.10 a pound. Stinkum is either poured on the floor, shot from a water pistol, thrown in a bottle or light bulb or vaporized by a firecracker. The same goes for the formaldehyde or acrolein. To vaporize the above nasties, a little bomb is used. The best bomb casing is a plastic coin holder with a screw cap. these can be bought from any coin shop for $.10 each. the thin brass tubing is bought at a hobby shop. The wax is bought at a grocery in the canning section. To keep the firecracker from getting wet, dip it and part of the tubing into melted wax. Enough goody is poured into the coin holder to make it full when the firecracker is put in and the lid is screwed on. It is filled as soon as possible before using. It is ignited with a chemical igniter, shown further on, or with a match or cigarette. The same system can be used in a glass bottle but that might injure someone. ! <- fuse --- ! ! <- brass tube ! ! ! ! (^) <- airplane glue ------- ! !1! ! ! / ! ! / ! !-----! <- wax ! 1 ! ! 1 ! ! === ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! <- firecracker ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! === ! !-----! =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- MAKING THERMITE =- =- =- =- Edited for =- =- =- =- Computer Pirates of Utah =- =- =- =- (801)-264-8201 =- =- =- =- by =- =- =- =- The Irate Pirate =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically anything, save tungsten. Now here's how you make it. It is very simple. The first step in making thermite is to make hematite. In layman's terms, hematite is iron oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making large quantities of rust. You will electrolyze a metal rod, such as a common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well. An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the positive wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, there will be a dark red crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the water or just fish it out with a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a nice light red. The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings. You can either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum filings at you local hardware shop. (If you buy the bar use no less than 94% pure aluminum. It is called duralumin) That's almost it. Now, mix together the rust and aluminum filings. The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum filings. That's thermite! Now, to light it! Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of the thermite. (Either steal it from the chem. lab or buy it at you local hardware store. If not, order from a chemical supply house.) The ribbon should stick into the thermite like a fuse. Now you light the magnesium with a blowtorch. (Don't worry, the torch is not hot enough to light the thermite) When the burning magnesium reaches the thermite, it will light. When the thermite burns, get the hell back!!! That stuff can vaporize carbon steel. It does wonders on human flesh! \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ NOTE: DO NOT STARE AT THE MAGNESIUM WHEN IT BURNS (IT WILL BLIND YOU). \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ : Electronic Terrorism : by King Tut It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned. step 1: Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger boil. step 2: In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit (details below.) step 3: Plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it by hand! an example of an effective note: "Don't be such an jerk, or the next one will take off your hand. Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a homicidal psychopath. step 5: Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions. step 6: Sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit #1. The parts you'll need are: 1) 4 aa batteries 2) 1 9-volt battery 3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack) 4) 1 rocket engine (or smoke bomb or m-80) 5) 1 solar igniter (any hobby store) 6) 1 9-volt battery connector step 1: Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through th relay's coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between the locker, mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed position thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.) step 2: Take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession. wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another (serial), Until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar igniter quickly and effectively. step 3: Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar igniter. Then wire the other prong of the solar igniter back to the open position on the relay. step 4: Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar igniter into the rocket engine (or smoke bomb or m-80). Your kit is now complete! ---------><--------- | (contacts) | | | | --- (9 volt) | - (battery) | --- | | | (coil) | ------///////------| /----------| / | / | / | (switch)-- | | | | --- (battery) | - ( pack ) | --- | | | | ---- ----- | | * (solar igniter) Department Store Fun Many of the department stores in my area use a large plastic device stapled to the clothing as a security precaution. Several years ago, an adventurous friend of mine got ahold of one of these somehow, and we took it apart. Inside was a heavy paper strip laminated to aluminum foil (?). As I recall, this paper strip was about half an inch wide and 3-1/2 inches long. When this device got close to a pillar or column at the exits of a store, an alarm would sound. My friend put this paper in his wallet, and we had a lot of fun wandering in and out of various stores at a local shopping center. We would enter when a group of people would enter, or exit with several other shoppers all together.. When we entered a local Sears in the shopping center in the main corridor of the indoor mall, a loud bell rang. A family with kids was just leaving. The nearest clerk ran out the entrance to look at everyone standing around. A plain clothes security guy appeared out of nowhere. Everyone had a good time. The next store we went in was also packed with people and the manager (?) got paranoid when the alarm went off. If you move about discreetly and don't wear a jacket or coat, you can liven up the busiest of stores. But don't go into an empty store with one of these in your wallet. That's a no-no. Presented by the Digital Dimension 714/891-3334 Dial Locks (by Bioc Agent 003) Have you ever been in an office or somewhere and wanted to make a free phone call but some asshole put a lock on the phone to prevent out-going calls? Fret no more phellow phreaks, for every system can be beaten with a little knowledge! There are two ways to beat this obstacle, first pick the lock, I don't have the time to teach locksmithing so we go to the second method which takes advantage of telephone electronics. To be as simple as possible, when you pick up the phone you complete a circuit know as a local loop. When you hang-up you break the circuit. When you dial (pulse) it also breaks the circuit but not long enough to hang up! so you can "push-dial." To do this you >rapidly< depress the switchhook. For example, to dial an operator (and then give her the number you want called) >rapidly< & >evenly< depress the switchhook 10 times. To dial 634-1268, depress 6 x's pause, then 3 x's, pause, then 4 x's, etc. It takes a little practice but you'll get the hang of it. Try practicing with your own # so you'll get a busy tone when right. It'll also work on touch-tone since a dtmf line will also accept pulse. Also, never depress the switchhook for more than a second or it'll hang-up! Finally, remember that you have just as much right to that phone as the asshole who put the lock on it! Harmless Terror By: The Prowler The Speak Easy (818) 905-6262 To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victems but only terror. These are weapons that should be used from high places. 1) The flour bomb. Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to keep it together. When thrown it will fly well but when it hits, it covers the victim with the flower or causes a big puff of flour which will put the victim in terror since as far as they are concerned, some strange white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a bag of flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people flee in panic. 2) Smoke bomb projectile. All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke bombs and watch the terror since they think it will blow up! 3) Rotten eggs (good ones) take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small hole in the top of each one. Then let them sit in a warm place for about a week. Then you've got a bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell when they hit. 4) Glow in the dark terror. Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the victim, they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so they run in total panic. This works especially well with flower bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets all over the victim. 5) Fizzling panic. Take a baggie of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make sure there is no air in it since the solution will form a gas and you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic bag and fill it with vinegar and seal it. When thrown, the two substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling substance to go all over the victim. VENDING MACHINE KEYS By Quasimoto This worked for a friend of mine at school (I would) never do anything like this) it got him over $900 in one day. Here's how to do it: On almost all vending machines they have those damn round almost unpickable locks on them so: When no one is looking quickly press a piece of AIR-HARDENING clay into the lock. (Press hard enough to get a good impression.) Remove the clay carefully and let it dry for however long the clay has to dry as specified on the package. You now have a key to fit that lock, (this Type of 'key' can be easily crushed if you're seen. But if you're smart you won't though) Have Phun!!